Flexible insoles provided with removable forepart stiffening means



1957 K. A. STRITTER 2,809,450

. FLEXIBLE INSOLES PROVIDED WITH REMOVABLE FOREPART STIFFENING MEANSFiled Nov. 24, 1954 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 By his Azzarney 1957 K. A. STRITTER2,809,450

FLEXIBLE INSOLES PROVIDED WITH REMOVABLE FOREPART STIFFENING MEANS FiledNov. 24, 1954 2 SheetsSheet 2 55;)? Mei;

Inventor [Ta/"Z A. Szrz'tzer By his Attorney tinned htates hatentFLEXIBLE INSOLES PRGVIDED WITH REMGV- ABLE FOREPART STIFFENENG MEANSKarl A. Stritter, Nahant, Mass, assignor to United Shoe MachineryCorporation, Flemington, N. 5., a corpora= tion of New JerseyApplication November 24, 1954, Serial No. 470,995

3 Claims. (Cl. 36-44) This invention relates to insoles, moreparticularly to insoles for use in the manufacture of flexible,flat-lasted shoes.

An object of the invention is to provide an insole by the use of which asubstantial yet very soft shoe of the flat-lasted type may be made andwhich may be held in place to retain the feather line of the shoe duringoperations on the shoe, the insole being released before the shoe iscompleted. To accomplish this object, a thin, flexible insole or bodylayer of a size and shape to cover at least the forepart of the bottomof a selected last is provided. To hold such an insole on the lastbottom so as to permit an upper to be lasted over it without the insolebeing pushed in, rucked up or otherwise displaced thus destroying thefeather line of the shoe, 2. stifiening plate and stifiening plateretaining means are provided.

The stiffening plate retaining means is a permanent insole member and issecured to the insole so as to form a rearwardly open pocket on theforepart thereof and may be made of a piece of sheet material such asfabric of horseshoe shape the outer boundary of which corresponds to theouter boundary of the forepart of the insole, these outer boundaries orperipheral portions being secured together close to their edgespreferably by a fine seam. This form of stiffening plate retaining meansprovides a rand or strip about the forepart of the insole, to which randthe upper may be secured in lasted position by cement or by fasteningsdriven through the upper and rand. The rand also constitutes a lastinglayer between the insole and upper.

In case the entire forepart of the upper is to be cement-lasted, thestiffening plate retaining means may be a piece of sheet material, suchas coarse fabric, correspending in size and shape to the forepart of theinsole, the insole and the fabric piece being secured together abouttheir curved peripheral portions and the rear end of the fabric piecebeing unsecured to the insole so that it forms a rearwardly open pocket.This pocket layer constitutes a lasting layer since the upper is securedto it. In either case, the stiffening plate is temporarily inserted intothe pocket before the insole is tacked to the last bottom and may, afterthe tacks are removed, be withdrawn rearwardly from the pocket after ithas served its purpose and may be used repeatedly. The stiffening plateis of a size and shape to snugly fit against the seam holding thestiffening plate retaining means to the body layer and is located, ofcourse, between the stiffening plate retaining means and the body layer.

At the shank-and-heel portion of the insole a shankand-heel piece ofleather or fiber of substantial thickness is employed since flexibilityin this part of a conventional shoe is not desirable. The shank-and-heelpiece has a skived front end which is secured to the flexible forepartinsole or, if the insole or body layer covers the last bottom, theshank-and-heel piece is cemented to the shank- .and-heel portion of theinsole or body layer. After the insole with the plate inserted issecured to the last bottom, an upper is assembled on the last, pulledover and 2,899,450 Fatented Oct. 15, 1957 lasted to the insole, the heelend being lasted with tacks, the sides of the shank portion being heldin lasted position, for example, by curved staples, and the forepartbeing lasted to the stiffening plate retaining means preferably bycement.

During the lasting of the forepart over the thin, flexible insole, thestiffening plate retains the outline of the insole and prevents anydistortion or disturbance of the feather line.

The stiffening plate retaining means may be saturated with cement, inwhich case, after the upper is lasted to the stiffening plate retainingmeans and the stiffening plate withdrawn, the cement on the upper and onthe stiffening plate retaining means may be activated by the applicationof heat and pressure to the shoe bottom, for example, by placing theshoe in a bottom ironing machine. By this treatment the lasting layer orstiffening plate retaining means is caused to adhere to the body layerof the insole. The cement bond between the upper and the lasting layeror stilfening plate retaining means is enhanced and the overlasted upperis smoothed out and wrinkles removed. After this treatment, which,however, may be omitted, the overlasted portion of the upper or lastingallowance may be roughened or cemented. The cavity between the edges ofthe upper may be filled with sheet cushioning material the thickness ofwhich at its outer edge will be equal only to the thickness of the randplus the thickness of the upper, if a rand is used, in case thestiffening plate retaining means covers the forepart of the insole, willbe at its edge at least equal only to the thickness of the upper. A solewill now be cement-attached to the flattened lasting allowance of theupper, the result being a novel shoe construction in which a lastinglayer is cemented to the body layer, the upper is cemented to thelasting layer, and the outsole is cement-attached to the upper. If alight appearing, close edge shoe is desired, a close edge sole may beattached to the shoe, preferably by cement. If the appearance of awelted shoe is desired, an extension sole may be cement-attached and astitchdown welt applied to the extension with its edge close against theupper and the welt sewed to the extension outsole.

In case the insole is to be used in making shoes in which the edge ofthe insole is exposed as in strap sandal, open heel or open toe work,the thin, flexible body layer may be extended beyond the stiffeningplate retaining means at the forepart and, if desired, beyond theshankand-heel piece, the extended portion being reduced in thickness byskiving or by a shoulder scarf and wrapped over upon the margin of thestiffening-plate retaining means where it is secured by a fine seampassing through the folded portion, the stiffening plate retaining meansand the body layer of the insole. The extended portion at the heel andshank may be folded over upon the outer face of the shank-and-heel pieceand secured thereto by cement.

In the drawings- Fig. 1 is a perspective view of the body layer of theinsole with a shank-and-heel piece secured to its shankand-heel portion;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of a forepart body layer with ashank-and-heel piece sewed to the rear end portion of the forepart bodylayer;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of one form of stiffening plate retainingmeans;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of another form of stiffening plateretaining means;

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the body layer of Fig. 1 with thestiffening plate retaining means of Fig. 3 sewed to the body layer;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the stiffening plate;

Fig. 7 is a cross-sectional view through the forepart of the shoe shownin Fig. 8;

.Fig. 8 is -.a perspective view of a shoe lasted over the jhsoleofFigJSwith the stifiening plate of Fig.6 in place;

Fig.9 is a sectional view taken on the line IXIX of a V Fig. 10 is aperspective view of the insole of Flg. 2 with the stifiening plateretaining means of Fig. 4 secured thereto, the stiffening plate of Fig.6 being in place between the :body portion and thestiffening .plateretaining means; i Fig. 11 is a fragmentary sectional view of theforepart of the shoe of Fig. 8 after a close edge sole has beencement-attached;

.Fig. l2.is a'view similar to 'Fig. 11 showingan exten- 'js'ioii edgedonts'ole cement-attached to the shoe and awelt applied to the extension;and 1 :Fig. 131s a view similar to Fig. 10 showing an insole aboundedge.

The insoleof the present invention comprises an insole .member having .athin, flexible forepart and a relatively thick and stiff shank-andheelportion. This may be made by providing-a body layer .10 (Fig. 1) tocover the bottom .of a selected last. The layer 10 may be of sock liningmaterial, upper leather or a grain or flesh spilt. To theshank-a'nd-heel portion of the layer 10 may be attached, preferably bycement, a shank-and-heel piece 12 of thick, sritt material such as soleleather or fiber.

Sock liningstock'may be saved by providing, in place of 'the 'layerll-d,a forepart body layer 14 covering the forepart onlyio'f the last bottomandattaching thereto the skivedrfront end of the shank-and-heel piece 12(Fig. 2), for example, by a seam 16.

. It is to be understood that either the insole member of Fig. ,1 orthat of Fig. '2 maybe used in completing the in- 'sole in themanner tobe described.

'To complete the insole a stifiening plate 18 (Fig. 6) and stifieningplate retaining means 20 (Fig. 3) or 21 (Fig; '4), either of which is tobe a permanent insole :member, are provided. The plate 18 is shaped likethe forepart of an insolebut is slightly smaller and may be imade of anythin, fairly stiif, 'sheet material such as steel or 'fiber. Sinceplastics, such as polyethylene, resist adhesion to cement, the plate maybe made from a thin sheet vided with .a ihand piece 22 projectingfromits rear end. The stiffeningplate retaining rne'ans '20 is in the.form df a rand or strip the outer edge of which corresponds fto'theoutline of .the forepart of the insole. It may he died outin this shapefrom a coarse fabric, suchas buck- "ram', andmay'be coated or saturatedwith cement. The 'randjZG is placed upon either one of the insolemembers shown infFigs. landZ with its outer edge flush with the '-e'dgeof the forepart of the insole or body layer and is attachedtheretofbyaffine seam 24 located close to the "edges'of the parts, as shown inFig.5.

The .stifiening plate retaining means 21 is made of the samematerial asthe rand 20, is similarly cemented and -is of the size and shape of theforepart of the insole or body layer. The stiffening plate retainingmeans 21 (Fig. 10) has its curved peripheral portion sewed to the curved"peripheral portion of the forepart of the body layer of the "insole,"the layer 21 forming a complete layer on the forepart of the insole andin each case the rand 20 or the layer 21 forms a rearwardly open pocketinto which the stiffening plate 18 may beslipped, as shown in .Figs. 7,8, and 10. The plate 18; in either'case, fits against the -.seam 24 andserves to render the'limp'part of the insole sufficiently stifi topermit the lasting-of an upper over it without its being wrinkled orrucked up.

Either insole thus prepared is'secured to the bottom 'of a last L (Fig;8) by tacks 26 driventhrough the plate 18 or through the stiffeningplate retaining means :21 and the plate 18 to hold the insole in placeon the last bottom, a the plate serving. to maintain the featherline-.of the shoe during lasting. An upper 30 is assembled on the lastand the shoe is pulled over and lasted by usual procedures as to theshank and heel, the heel-seat, for example, being lasted with tacks 34and the sides of the shank by curved staples 36 (Figs. 8 and 9). .Theinner surface of the lasting allowance 32 at the forepart may beprovided with cement and the cement on the stiffening plate retainingmeans or 21 rendered active if necessary. The upper 30 (Fig. 8) is thentensioned and its lasting allowance 32 laid over the stiffening plateretaining means 20 or 21 in finally lasted position to be held by thecement. At the toe, of course, a bed lasting machine or an automatic toelasting machine may be used. When the stitfening plate retaining meansis in the form of the rand 20, the sides of the forepartmaygf desired besecured in lasted position by inserting fastenings such as staplesthrough the upper and rand and clinching them on the under side .of therand. During lasting, any pressure tending to displace or ruck-up theinsole at the forepart is opposed by the plate 18, which is confined bythe seam 24 and by .thestifiening plate retaining means to the insolewhich is held by the tacks 26 touthelast. Thus, theoutline .of theinsole or the feather line of the shoe is unchanged.

7 After the shoe .is lasted .the tacks 26are pulled and the ofpolyethylene; To facilitate handling the plate itis prostifiening plate.18 is withdrawn by seizing the hand piece 22 and pulling .theplaterearwardly of the shoe for use .over and over. The .overlasted .marginof the upper is roughened and cemented and any excess of upper extendingbeyond the .rand 20 maybe trimmed off.

V Inorder-tosecure the .stifiening plate retaining means of either termand the lasting allowance in flat condition against the body layer 10,.the shoe may be subjected to a bottom ironingoperation .in which theshoe bottom is subjected to heat and pressure. This operation'on theshoe may be performed .by a .machine of the type disclosed in United."States Letters Patent No. 2,175,474;

granted October .10, 1939, .upon an application of Axel A. Lawson. Theheat .and pressure thus applied cause the cement on thestifiening .plateretainingmeans to adhere to the insole .andthaton the .upper to adheremore firmly to thestiiiening plate retaining means; The lastingallowance 32 of .the upper will also be smoothed out and wrinkleseliminated. A shankstifiener may now be applied .tothe shank portionofthe shoe and a cushion filler 38 applied tothe' forepart. Ifga,shoeoftclose-edgeappearance is desired, a closeedge sole 40 may becementeattached, as indicated in Fig. ,11. If ashoe .resemblingaweltshoein appearance is desired, an extension sole 42, as shown'in Fig. 12,may. be cement-attached and a .stitchdown welt 44 crowded againsttheshoe .upper :and secured by a seam .46 to the .-outsole.- .A heel will"be :attached and the shoe .finishedin the usual manner.

'Inficase .shoes having uppers which do not conceal f the entire .edge:of the insole are to be made,- the subject insole'may have -a bound .orcovered edge .(Fig. 13.). '-In.this .case the insole :body member 10 maybe .sufliciently enlarged to permitrskiving or shoulder scarfmgtitseperipheral portionso that -the scarfed :margin may betfolded overthe stiffening plate retaining means and rsecuredwthereto attthe:forepart by :the peripheral .seam .24 holding the stifieningplateretaining means and the insole member together. .At the shank and heelthe v.insolelmay be r folded over the shank-and-heel piece and cementedto its outersur-face. The insole edge may be thus bound irrespectiveofwhich form .of stiffening plateretainingmeans ;is employed.

n .Havingthus described .myiinventiomlwhat I claim as newiandtdesire-ito secure'jby 'Letters Patentiof the United Statestis: 1 7V :1. ;An insole -for-shoes comprising a thin iflexiblebody layer, andstifiening plate retaining means .having the outline of the ttorepartzofan insole, 'the body :layer being-extendedxheyondztheastifleningiplateretaining means and irbeing.reducedjsin athickness: on xits extended marginal portion, saidmarginal portion being wrapped over the edge of the stiffening plateretaining means and secured thereto by a seam passing through thereduced portion, the stiffening plate retaining means and the body layerof the insole.

2. An insole for shoes comprising a thin, flexible body layer, andstiffening plate retaining means having the outline of the forepart ofan insole, the body layer being extended beyond the stiffening plateretaining means, the marginal portion of said body layer being wrappedover the edge of the stifiening plate retaining means and securedthereto by a seam passing through the marginal portion, the stifieningplate retaining means, and the body layer of the insole.

3. An insole for shoes comprising a thin, flexible body layer, aremovable stiflfening plate of a shape corresponding to, but somewhatsmaller than, the forepart portion of said body layer and adapted toreinforce said forepart portion during the lasting of a shoe upper, andstifiening plate retaining means having the outline of the forepart ofthe insole, the body layer being extended beyond the stifiening plateretaining means, the marginal portion of said body layer being wrappedover the edge of the stifiening plate retaining means and securedthereto by a seam passing through the marginal portion, the stiffeningplate retaining means, and the body layer of the insole.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS621,238 Forbush Mar. 14, 1899 6 Alberts Aug. 14, McMaster June 8,Campbell June 8, Cummings June 8, Sadler Apr. 12, Bain Feb. 13,Maccarone Oct. 29, Bain Mar. 17, Turner Oct. 6, Anderson Dec. 8, BainMar. 2, Maccarone Dec. 27, Farrington Jan. 17, Azzara June 4, FausseJuly 7, McDermott Sept. 14, Gallo July 11, Maling Oct. 16, Klwen Jan.22, Gallo Nov. 26, Brady et a1. Dec. 17, Butler Aug. 2, Sellinger Dec.23, McConnell Jan. 12,

FOREIGN PATENTS Norway Jan. 15, Italy Oct. 16, Switzerland Sept. 15,

